Kookai operator Forminster has boosted the amount of product designed in-house in an effort to better cater for UK shoppers.
From next season, Forminster will design 25 per cent of the clothing range. A freelance designer has been hired for the initiative.
The strategy is in response to the product constraints that the UK business has suffered from French parent company Kookai SA.
Forminster managing director Michael Rahamim said Kookai's ranges, which in the past were entirely designed by the parent company, were not suitable for the UK market.
In addition, the size 16 that was piloted in five stores for spring/summer will be offered in all 55 UK outlets next season.
Kookai unveiled its autumn/winter collection last week, which celebrates the return of vintage chic. Key influences, as with the rest of the high street, came from the 1920s, 1940s and 1970s.