Leicester is in the spotlight again following allegations of unsafe working conditions and suppliers paying below minimum wage with links to Boohoo and Quiz. Industry experts weigh in on whether it is time for fashion to pack up in Leicester or double down on tackling the problems.

Peter McAllister ETI

Peter McAllister, executive director, Ethical Trading Initiative

joint report by ETI and Leicester University highlighted widespread labour rights abuses in Leicester garments factories five years ago. It has taken a global pandemic for these abuses to finally be taken seriously.

The drop in Boohoo’s share price demonstrates that these are business issues because they matter to consumers and investors alike. Surely this is a lesson for the lowest-cost model on which some fashion is based.

The government has a key role to play to foster an environment where labour rights abuses are brought to light. Brands have a role to play too but without a supportive regulatory environment and bodies with real teeth, labour rights abuses will continue to go unchecked, driving away responsible buyers.

Good practice in Leicester is the same as in Bangladesh or India: develop long-term relationships with your suppliers; carry out effective due diligence; and if you don’t have sight of your supply chains, dig deeper. If you find evidence of criminality then yes, pull out.

However, we would rather there was a UK industry we can be proud of – one characterised by high skills, decent conditions, good wages and creativity.

Grace-Bowden

Grace Bowden, head of content, Retail Week

Leicester has rightly come under intense scrutiny in recent weeks following the most recent allegations of modern slavery.

Boohoo and Quiz are the two businesses that have been dragged into the mire, with explosive allegations of employees at suppliers for the two brands working for as little as £3.

Many have called for retailers to pull out of Leicester entirely as a supply base that cannot be made to operate ethically and at scale. But I don’t think that is an option that fashion retailers should take. With Brexit on the horizon, building up a competitive supply base in the UK is going to only become more vital for the fashion sector long term. And, on a moral level, what right do we have to rightfully demand acceptable working conditions from suppliers abroad if we cannot even enforce them on our own soil?

The quick fix would be to pull out of Leicester but it would not be the right one – and it would not stop people in Leicester being exploited. Instead, fashion retail should be given concrete support by the government to tackle this problem head-on and improve working conditions in the city.

Julian burnett

Julian Burnett, VP global markets (retail and consumer products), IBM

If suppliers in Leicester cannot offer traceability and transparency, I would question why any retailer would continue to source there. All retailers have a responsibility to ensure they and their suppliers are complying with all prevailing laws and regulations.

Today, much of this responsibility depends upon trust and confidence in the measures in place to safeguard workers, to maintain transparency in supply chains and also to protect the environment from harm as well.

Confidence and trust can only be had when conditions in the workplace are verified as safe and compliant through regular reviews. Supply chain transparency and product traceability are essential here too.