Supply chain monitor the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) has declined to take part in Boohoo’s Leicester inquiry, questioning its focus on factories and not on the retailer’s buying procedures.

In a statement, the ETI said it had “decided to decline to respond” to an invitation to give evidence to the fast-fashion giant’s inquiry led by Alison Levitt QC into how its clothes are made. It criticised the focus of the investigation and ultimately questioned its independence. 

The monitor said the issues uncovered at garment factories making Boohoo clothing in Leicester “have existed in the UK garment sector for decades” and had only been exacerbated by the coronavirus crisis.

Then ETI criticised the questionnaire’s “narrow questions” and its focus “on individual factories and suppliers, rather than looking at the business practices that feed this environment” and questioned why similar practices at Boohoo factories in Burnley had not received the same scrutiny and criticism. 

The supply chain monitor, which is made up of an alliance of charities, unions and companies, said: “We do not believe that an enquiry commissioned by Boohoo and paid for by Boohoo can be fully independent.”

Ultimately, the ETI said finding a solution to the problem would require businesses like Boohoo to “assess whether the price paid for a low-cost item feeds modern slavery”.

The body said in its recent discussions with the fast-fashion group “we have not seen a willingness from Boohoo to engage in this process”.

The statement comes after the Levitt review had approached the ETI to fill in an online questionnaire regarding the practices reported by The Sunday Times.