M&S has hired a new boss for one of its most crucial categories - lingerie. Can she help turn around the embattled clothing arm?

M&S has hired Jo Jenkins to head up lingerie department

Marks & Spencer’s incoming lingerie boss Jo Jenkins has taken one of the most sought-after but pressurised jobs in fashion.

Just six months ago, M&S unveiled the team that was to transform its embattled clothing business. One of its high-profile new signings was Janie Schaffer, the so-called ‘knicker queen’ who co-founded lingerie group Knickerbox and was fresh from a stint at US giant Victoria’s Secret.

However, just a few months into her role, Schaffer exited. M&S has gone for a very different candidate this time around.

In Jenkins, at present womenswear product director at Next with responsibility for lingerie, M&S has opted for a safe pair of hands who knows the target customer. In fact, Jenkins spent 12 years at M&S before moving to Next.

M&S executive director of general merchandise John Dixon described her as a “talented retailer”. He said: “She brings a wealth of experience, with excellent product knowledge and great customer understanding.”

Verdict senior analyst Honor Westnedge says Jenkins’ experience makes her a good fit for M&S. “Next is definitely more comparable than Victoria’s Secret,” says Westnedge. “Jo’s got great experience and knowledge of the mass market. Next sells a similarly priced product to M&S and has a similar broad appeal.”

Although she has spent the majority of her career working in product, Jenkins, who does not have a start date confirmed, is an all-rounder with experience in both store operations and sourcing.

James Hyde, director at headhunter Flint Hyde, says: “She’s a fabulous product person and is incredibly engaging. She has the potential to be a great hire for M&S.”

Jenkins, who will also head beauty, joins M&S at a difficult time. The retailer’s fashion sales have declined for seven consecutive quarters. Last month like-for-likes at its general merchandise arm - comprising fashion and home - declined 3.8% in its fourth quarter.

All eyes are on the retailer as it aims to turn around fashion. This week it unveiled its autumn collection, on which its revival hopes hinge. M&S is striving to woo back unhappy customers - and lingerie, in which it is still the clear market leader, will continue to be critical to its offer.

“M&S relies on lingerie to drive footfall. It is what gets people into store and encourages other buys,” says Westnedge.

Despite being the lingerie market leader - it is thought to hold about a 25% share - M&S faces increasingly tough competition in the category as retailers such as Primark, New Look and H&M continue to broaden their offer.

Specialists such as La Senza are reinvigorating their ranges while Boux Avenue is on the expansion trail.

Westnedge believes M&S’s lingerie could hold the key to widening its customer base.

“Lingerie is a prime example of an area where M&S still attracts a broad customer base. It should be hanging its clothing offer off this,” she says.

Jenkins joins an M&S team finding its feet. Clothing supremo Kate Bostock departed last year to join Asos, and Dixon, who was much applauded in his role heading food, moved to general merchandise.

Chief executive Marc Bolland has brought in former Debenhams boss Belinda Earl as style director and moved Frances Russell, formerly in charge of lingerie, to lead the struggling womenswear business.

One source says: “There’s a lot of pressure there at the moment. Jo could be great at M&S but there is much instability in the business now and she could be left a little exposed.”

However, Jenkins’ corporate background will benefit her.

“She will be used to reporting into heads of department and working within a difficult hierarchy. She will understand that it is difficult to implement change as quickly as she would like,” says Westnedge.

But, with more than a decade already under her belt at M&S, Jenkins may have the endurance to reign supreme as M&S’s knicker queen for years to come.

Career history

2007 to present Next womenswear product director responsible for lingerie, swimwear, nightwear, loungewear, footwear and accessories

2005 to 2007 Next Sourcing, general manager

1997 to 2004 Next, various buying roles, including womenswear buying manager

1985 to 1997 Marks & Spencer, various retail and buying roles